Monday, August 12, 2019

Fiji : Trouble in Paradise

24th –27th June 2019

Fiji is made up of over 300 islands Denarau on Viti Levu was our destination



Following a solid  night’s rest after making landfall in Momi Bay, we awoke to a magnificent sunrise. The only trouble with that is the old wives ditto…      “Red sky in the morning, sailors warning”

We should have realised then and there that things might be about to go pear shaped.

Our on board check-in with the Fijian authorities at Port Denarau Marina could not have been easier. The officers were pleasant, efficient and quick.




Contrary to what we’d be told by other cruisers they never stepped foot inside the boat nor did they confiscate any of our meat or vegetables. As for the health officer, his only question was “are you both healthy”? followed by here is my fee which you can pay at the marina office.
The fees were minimal with no charges for Customs or Immigration clearance during normal working hours or for our Cruising Permit. And as per the Fiji Mariners Guide the only costs were Health clearance : FJ $163.50 and Biosecurity : FJ$ 85.02 .
Red sky in the morning, sailor's warning !


Liam had mentioned earlier in the morning that he’d noticed water, (and that would salt water of course), in my bow “shed” where we keep all our docking fenders, winter clothes and bedding along with a host of other stuff which is definitely salt water phobic. So you can imagine what I was thinking.

To cut to the chase we spent the following two days tied to the dock unpacking everything in my shed and painstakingly hand washing it all. There was so much water in there that Liam spent hours rigging up a pump and then pumping it out. 
In the midst of all this madness with our cockpit now resembling a junk yard our friends in uniform decided to pay us another visit. We wondered why.
Upmarket Denarau Marina complete with bars, restaurants and a Hard Rock Cafe

It turns out that their untimely visit was two fold, They clamored back on board amidst our chaos stepping over wads of salty clothing, suitcases piled high and a myriad of tools and pumps. It was clearly a different scene to when we arrived with a pristine cockpit 24 hours earlier.

As I said their visit was two fold with one issue being that I had omitted paying the Biosecurity Fee. Actually I didn’t realise that he’d given me the bill as it had been stapled to the back of another form and I’d completely missed it.  The money was handed over and that matter was settled.
All very smiles yesterday,,,but today it's a different story


The other more pressing issue from the Customs officer. 
We know  from our surveillance that you stopped in Momi  Bay the night before you checked in here, so tell me why? That was a big no no as it turns out. We answered honestly, saying that we were fatigued from the rough passage and that also in the guide book it is stated that you have 24hrs to clear in once you arrive in Fiji Waters, which is what we had done. 
We also told them that our charting for the Denarau area was not very good and we chose to stop for that reason. Entering a foreign port in the dark with less than perfect charting would be foolhardy and we just don’t take those sort of risks, we explained to him.
Biosecurity and assistant Immigration officer


He wanted to see my book which I gladly showed him. His retort was that the intent of that paragraph was not as it was written. To which I replied I can only interpret the words how they written.

The gentleman cogitated over these points but then started to delve deeper.  Did you get off the boat and go ashore in Momi Bay? No we didn’t get off the boat we just went to bed Do you know about the Australian catamaran that got busted on arrival last year carrying two million dollars worth of cocaine? Well of course we did, that sort of thing spreads like wildfire in the cruising community.
Do you know the people who were on that catamaran? No.   You have a very nice catamaran, where did you get the money to buy it?  We sold our house to buy it, I said. So you don't own a house anymore? No we don’t, this boat is our home. What type of jobs did you both have when you were working? You must have made a lot of money from your jobs, yes? We worked hard and saved so we could buy a boat. Do you have drugs on board? Absolutely not, bring your sniffer dogs down, Liam said.  Tell me again why you stopped in Momi bay ?? The questions went on for over an hour with him saying  over and over this is a big problem.

We had heard the day after we’d checked-in that a US flagged vessel also stopped in the same bay and had expressed a good deal of attitude with regard to the questioning and was fined a few thousand dollars for stopping before clearing in. We figured we were now about to join that payroll as well.

Red sky in the morning …

Eventually the Biosecurity officer must have decided enough was enough with all the questions and he picked up his phone and said to the customs fellow “I think we are done here” and with that they left, we breathed a sigh of relief at not having to cough up for a very big fine and got back to the business of cleaning up our salty mess.


It seems that laidback Fiji is now on the radar as a drop off /distribution point for drug shipments leaving South America bound for Australia and Asia. Indeed we know of  at least three Australian cruising boats that have been under the eye of the Australian boarder authorities working in conjunction with Fiji Federal police to intercept these shipments. Two of the vessels were catamarans.
So if you are reading this and are a cruising boat leaving Panama looking to make a few quick bucks, think long and hard about the choice you make.

With the interrogation, cleaning and repacking now behind us it was time for some socialising with  Aussie friends John and Franny from Kia Ora who we last touched base with in French Polynesia.

Later in the week quick we’d be heading over to Musket Cove where Liam’s family and grandkids were due to fly in in a couple of days. That should be a fun time for all concerned.

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Monday, July 29, 2019

North Minerva Reef and final passage to Fiji
Sunsets, Snorkeling and Sumptuous Lobsters

18th –23rd June 2019
Minerva Reef sunset


One by one the group of boats we left New Zealand with arrived at beautiful Minerva Reef. By the time the dust settled seven boats were anchored with us. Several dozen more could easily have fitted and no one would be invading their neighbours personal space. The lagoon inside the reef is huge.

If the conditions are right the reef is a perfect place to stop for a few days when heading north from New Zealand to Fiji or Tonga.





Fun times on Certaca



Lay days here can become very social  at times and with our little group that was certainly the case.
The crew of Rewa had caught a large marlin on the trip up and Tony and Gail from Certaca kindly offered to host the fish BBQ party, with everyone else pitching in bringing side dishes along. It was a real fun night.




There has been a lot of talk on the subject of catching lobsters here and  as it turns out it’s not not just the cruising boats who frequent this place. A few weeks earlier the Tongan Navy ship swung by for a few days and hoovered up a massive amount so along with the twenty boats that were stuck there for over a week due to bad weather, we really didn’t hold much hope of having much  hunting success. Ed from Aka, a veteran of stopping at the reef and quite the hunter himself gave Liam a few pointers on the most likely spot for catching these illusive creatures.  Well Liam was in the water like a rocket once he got the inside scoop on where to look.




The lobster hunt went very well and over two days we managed to catch five good sized ones. Four of them ending up as a very tasty lobster stew courtesy of Tessa and Nick from Rewa.
What a monster
Liam with Nick, Tessa & Heike from Rewa




Our snorkeling expedition was less successful, finding only a few spots of colourful coral and not a lot of fish life.




Our stay here in  Minerva was cut short by the weather gods and on the evening of the 21st we up anchored and headed out for the 3 night passage  of 435 miles to Savusavu Fiji.

Time to leave


It soon became apparent that due to both the weather and the fact that Liam's family was arriving into Nadi in less than a week it would be prudent to alert Fiji customs that we would now be arriving into the port of Denarau rather than Savusavu. So we bid our sailing buddies farewell over the radio, turned the helm to port  and pointed the bows towards Denarau on the west side of the main island of Viti Levu Fiji.

At 2200 hours on the 3rd day we plopped the anchor down in Mombi Bay Fiji, just 10 miles short of Denarau. Checking in could wait ‘till tomorrow.


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Sunday, July 28, 2019

Passage from New Zealand to North Minerva Reef


13th – 18th June 2019

GWTW & Scoots ready to head out from Marsden Cove Marina  

By midday on June 13th we’d completed our clearing out formalities for New Zealand and headed out of Marsden Cove Marina. It was a cracker of a day with a light breeze which pushed us past Whangarei Heads for possibly the  last time. Our next stop would be at North Minerva Reef some 800 odd miles to the north east.
The AIS view as our group passed Whangarei Heads

Leaving with a group of others boats,  three around the same size as GWTW, we figured we’d have plenty of company for the first leg of this trip. Scoots, a Chuck Payne design lined up at 50 ft, Rewa is 64ft and a Choy Lee named Cetascia  was 55ft, so the race was on. As the forecast was for both the wind and swell to increase over the coming 24hrs our initial sail plan was to put one reef in our mainsail and run with 3/4 jib. It was a good, comfortable choice.


We knew we were up for a few very cold nights at sea until we got to the lower latitude of Minerva and  believe me, cold it was. We are  talking temps of 11c with a wind chill factor. Rugged up to the hilt we looked more like we were heading for Antarctica  rather than the tropics.
But there’s an upside to everything and at 30 miles  out from New Zealand we still had a strong Vodaphone signal. It was that strong I was able to stream and download movies. Way to go Vodaphone NZ!

Bad weather approaching

Well the met service in NZ got their forecast right as the wind and sea state steadily increased. By 1900 on the 14th the seas peaked at three meters hitting us beam on on our port side. It was rough. The wind had climbed to 25-30 knots and with the jib already put to bed hours earlier, GWTW had her ears pinned back hitting speeds of 12 kts plus. We had left the pack in our wake with Rewa, a 64ft monohull now 35 miles behind us. So much for sailing in company.





 Starboard bow lifting as we hit 12 kts speed and more

The weather gods gave us a short respite the following day. The skies cleared, the seas calmed, the sun shone and we had warmth in our bones. But it was just a furby as by 2100 the barometer had dropped and the nasty weather returned. This time we put 2 reefs in the main, we only have two so there wasn’t much hanging up the mast and the jib was rolled in to just 1/4 size. The squalls returned along with the lumpy seas. Another fun night at sea.
Beautiful sunrise and calm seas



Come sunrise on the 16th things started to calm down, the wind was now from the northwest at 12 knots and the seas just one meter. One of the reefs was shaken out and we rolled out our brand new screecher, our big reaching sail. It certainly looked the part but it didn’t take long to realise that the sail had been cut too small compared to our previous one. Happy campers we were not. But more on that in another posting.





The new screecher gets a run
As the saying goes, bad things happen in threes. Well, we’d already had numbers one and two on this trip with the rough seas tearing off three of our rain awnings that cover the opening ports on our port side hull, and then there was the way too small screecher episode

Our third strike was one that every sailor dreads. A high water bilge alarm screaming its lungs out to warn you of possible impending doom. And that’s what happened at 2000 hours, 500 miles from land just as the off-watch started to drift into to LaLa land. Our ear-piercing starboard alarm, a motorcycle horn actually, had come to life big time. Liam and a dozy me, though not for long, rushed through the salon and down the stairs to the rear starboard cabin.

First thing was to cut the power to the alarm so we could hear ourselves think. Next was to figure out which of the two bilges was taking on water, one of which is the engine compartment located under the bed. The bed which is covered in all matter of things, guitars, drones, televisions, cockpit cushions etc had to be unpacked is a very hasty manner. 
A quick check revealed the starboard engine bay was the issue, with water flowing freely from the stern gland on the prop shaft. Not good at all.

It seems that while previously using that engine and after it was shut down the gear lever had not been moved from neutral to reverse and back to neutral which folds the propeller and stops drag on the shaft. As a result when warming up that engine reverse gear was already engaged as the prop was not folded, which had the effect of pulling the engine and shaft slightly aft, enough to create a gap at the seal and allow seawater to pour in at a great rate. The solution was to ignore the water flow and adjust the shaft seal, a relatively simply process but a tad unnerving while at sea. Anyway, after around 15 minutes the task was completed, the water stopped flowing and we caught our breaths. With the crisis averted our heart rates returned to normal.

One of the culprits in this mess was the outlet hose on the engine compartment pump. It was in poor shape and unbeknownst to us, despite regular checks, had developed several tiny holes due to rubbing from a hose clamp. So as the pump cleared water from the engine bay it actually leaked water into the bilge next door which in turn set off the alarm.

Arriving at North Minerva Reef


By the time we had 94 miles left to run on our last night at sea our friends on Scoots were 75 miles behind and Rewa 86 miles.

At 0945 on June 18th we dropped our anchor in 15ft of white sand in the calm waters of North Minerva Reef. The 823 mile passage had taken us 4 days, 21 hours and 50 minutes. 


For now we were the only boat in the anchorage and it sure felt good to drop the hook.

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Wednesday, June 12, 2019

Time to Say Goodbye

13th June 2019

Well folks today is the day. Yes it’s  time to leave New Zealand and head north for the tropics again.
It’s a cracker of a day here and the forecast looks great. We hope to stop at North Minerva Reef for a few days along the way before continuing on to Fiji.

We've had an absolute blast here with all our new found cruising friends and the all the friendly locals we’ve met along the way. The jury is still out on weather we will be returning here at the end of the season. Time will tell.
Last night's farewell dinner with most of the 17 boats that are leaving with us today

So to all our NZ friends, thanks for having us in your wonderful country and we hope our paths cross again sometime soon.

Time to hit the road.

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Time to go Cruising : Island Hopping in the Hauraki Gulf

May 2019


Once again a year had flashed by and it was time for GWTW to get her bottom painted again. There had been much debate as to which haul out yard  as there are quite a few here to choose from, but the winner was Port Whangarei Marine Centre. This was mainly due to the size of the travel lift, it’s really big, and the fact that the tarmac area where we would be parked was cement rather than just  loose gravel, which makes the decks really dirty. The haul out went very smoothly. The guys in the yard are excellent at what they do.

Ten days later with all our jobs finished we were back in the water looking very spic and span. After a few days of provisioning we headed back down the river and some 68 miles south to the Hauraki Gulf area, just a stones throw from Auckland. We’d heard excellent reports from other cruisers about this area and were looking forward to checking it out and most of all being out on the anchor once again.

The logging industry is big in NZ
With the promise of decent westerlies  for the first few hours to push us along we rolled out the jib and sailed comfortably in flat water . Then just as was promised by the Met Service, the wind died and south westerlies took their place, meaning we had to fire up the engine to punch into the wind and waves. Not a big deal really.


Kawau Island

Sunrise at Kawau Island

Our first stop was at the Island of Kawau, and with the wind really honking we tucked up close inshore at Harris Bay. We were well protected here and  from our snug spot you would never have known what the blustery conditions  were like outside. 


After two nights here we moved around to beautiful Mansion House Bay. As the name suggests the bay is named after the gorgeous 1800’s stately home and gardens that adorn the waterfront.



Originally the residence of the island’s copper mine superintendent, both the island and the home were purchased by Sir George Grey, a former governor in 1862. He expanded  and remodeled the home and  planted extensive gardens which included many exotic and native species of trees as well as introducing quite a exotic number of animals. These included  Weka, Zebras, Monkeys as well as Wallabies, Kookaburras and Peacocks, the later three are still found roaming the grounds of the house and the island.

Ornate Piano







Mansion House is now under the guardianship of the Dept. of Conservation and is open to the public for tours. The fee is a mere $4 and it is  thoroughly worth every cent, The home’s interior, completed with fully furnished period décor, is absolutely sensational to walk through.

Sir George Grey
The island has many well defined hiking trails and though we didn’t manage them all we did do a couple, one being out to the old coppermine. It was a nice way to see the island, though most of the island is out of bounds, being privately owned. But never the less a good stretch of the legs for a  couple of hours there and back, through pine forests and cool fern filled valleys.
While on the island we also stopped by the friendly Kawau Boating Club for a long lunch one day. It was a tad chilly and after the meal we trotted inside to finish our vinos in front of the pot belly fire. It was a real hardship to tear ourselves away from the warmth, but eventually we had to as the staff looked like they were packing it in for the day.






Rakino and Waiheke Islands



Moving further south in the Haruaki Gulf our next stop was at beautiful Woody bay on Rakino Island for a couple of days. We thought we had the place to ourselves until Saturday rocked around and we we joined by 27 other boats. We couldn’t believe that we never heard a peep from any of the other boats for the next two days. Come Sunday arvo one by one they all went back to wherever they’d come from and once again we owned the sea bed. And that's just the way we like it.

A little bit like Tuscany on Rakino

Our new Code Zero sail


Lavish Holiday home on Waiheke


From Rakino we had a nice sail in light air across to Waiheke Island. The northern end of this little gem is home to many wealthy Aucklanders. Well, you couldn’t really call these dwellings homes as such, they’re  more like modern day mansions the exception being that most are actually just holiday homes. 

And another one with an olive grove

The rest of the island is far more down to earth and modest. We took the coastal track past many of these substantial properties and were absolutely gob smacked. They must be owned by the New Zealand equivalent of the Vanderbilt's we reckon.Catching the local bus is a great way to see the interior of the island. And for us, anchoring in Rocky bay on the island’s south side presented us the opportunity to do so. There are a couple of small towns dotted along the route with funky cafes, wine bars, restaurants and shops. It’s a quite the  tourist island with many B&B’s and a host of winery's offering cellar tastings and upmarket estate dining options. Serviced by ferries from Auckland every hour or so, if you are a nine to five landlubber it’s a great  place to escape from the hustle and bustle of the big smoke.

 With the weather about to take a turn for the worst we made a bee line  across to the Corramandel Peninsular to seek refuge for the next five days. The forecast was for 45 knot winds clocking through every direction. We had time to pick out the eyes of a few anchorages before we settled on Squadron Bay in  Te Kouma Harbour. This place was bullet proof. Enclosed by high hills on all sides, no matter what mother nature through at us we new we’d be safe and we were. With 200ft of chain out we didn’t budge.   Two other boats joined us for the big blow  but there was plenty of room for all. The cows on the hills were very nonplussed about the whole weather event, I guess unlike us, they were used to it.


Sadly, that weather blew away our chances of sailing up to Great Barrier Island which was the main reason for making the cruise down to this area. But that’s life. The other reason that Great Barrier got canned was that we discovered a leak from one of our underwater lights which meant that we’d have to haul out again asap to fix the leak.

Is this how we fuel up in NZ??

 It wasn’t life threatening but really needed attention.  So we headed back to Whangarei and hauled at Marsden Cove on their you –beuat new hydraulic trailer. It only took a few hours to fix but we were glad we did. Nothing like piece of mind.

It was a short little TIKI tour of just a few of the Gulf’s Islands but one that we really enjoyed.



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Friday, June 7, 2019

Exploring south and west of Auckland
March & April 2019


The birthday Boy

Our second road trip took us south towards the big smoke of Auckland and beyond. We celebrated Liam’s 68th birthday with friends Sylvia and Tom from S/V Cinnabar here in Whangarei and then we hit the road.  
Stop numero uno was at the oil refinery at Marsden Cove, just an hour’s drive from town. Usually that sort of thing wouldn’t excite us but it was a fabulous facility with excellent exhibits and informative videos. Well worth the stop we decided. 







From here we took the off the beaten path roads following the eastern shore south. Up hill and down dale the roads snaked through the beautiful countryside.  
Some of the views were  along the way were quite jaw dropping.





Mark & Liam  belting out a few tunes

After staying a few nights with retired cruisers Mark and Amanda from Balvenie, we took off to the Coromandal Peninsular and the town of Thames.
We found a great air b&b for a couple of days and explored the area, walking the trails of the Karangahake Gorge and ruins of some early 1800’s gold mines and yep, fitted in another round of golf.






After staying a few nights with retired cruisers Mark and Amanda from Balvenie, we took off to the Coromandal Peninsular and the town of Thames. We found a great air b&b for a couple of days and explored the area, walking the trails of the Karangahake Gorge and ruins of some early 1800’s gold mines and yep, fitted in another round of golf.



A couple of classic cars we spotted


Continuing south to the seaside city of Tauranga  we caught up and stayed the night with one of Liam’s former business acquaintances, Bruce and wife Maureen. After a nice meal out we girls went to bed early but the boys being boys stayed up late and woke up a bit dusty Sunday morning.
From the east coast we hightailed it cross country to west coast to visit the Waitomo Caves. Under the green hills of Waitomo lies a labyrinth of caves, sink holes and underground rivers. Now these aren’t just any old caves, they have become famous because of the thousands of glowworm colonies found deep inside the cave system. I’m talking over 100 ft underground. 



Stalactites tights in the caves
Sadly none of my glowworm photos came out so you’ll have to take it from me that it looked like a starry night down there. While in the area we also took a  side trip to the Mangapohue natural bridge, a 17m high limestone arch which used to be part larger cave system and  also stopped at the Marokopa Falls
Next morning we were Hamilton bound by way of the Te Awamutu golf course, where we managed to squeeze in another nine holes. After a night in Hamilton it was back to Auckland  where we took the opportunity to check out the Auckland fish market for a tasty lunch, before visiting the excellent exhibitions in the Maritime Museum. 





One of the best exhibits focused on the life of Sir Peter Blake, a true legend in world sailing. Over several decades he successfully competed in round-the-world races and was the driving force behind several Americas Cup challenges, including New Zealand's’  1995 victory in San Diego. Coincidentally, we were actually there to catch some of the action, quite a thrill really. 

Tragically, Sir Peter was murdered by intruders in December, 2001 while on an expedition up the Amazon river.With our road trip over we  headed back up to GWTW in Whangarei.





While it was great to be back on board with familiar surroundings, it was also terrific to take in some of the many fantastic sights the north island of New Zealand has to offer. And also experience first hand the wonderful hospitality of the locals. Without this time ashore our visit to Kiwi land would certainly have been less than complete.







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