So Long & a Fond Farewell Apataki.
21st-27th March 2018
Our last days anchored off Apataki Carenage ( boatyard) were really pretty much about waiting for the easterly winds to die down so that we could head east to our first destination of the cruising season. Mind you, we did have an alternative in mind if the weather didn’t co-operate with our plans.
In the meanwhile there was plenty of time for sundowner rendezvous on the dock, more stunning sunsets to watch, beach walks to be had, fish to be caught and some pretty fancy afternoon diving displays courtesy of a couple of young, fit millennials whose forte was surfing, kiteboarding and sailing. If we’d have had score cards, these boys would have definitely got perfect “10’s”
While we were sitting out the winds, Alfred and Pauline, the yard owners who live on site, invited us to have dinner when their son Tony brought home the booty after a very fruitful day of offshore fishing. The menu was bbq-ed tuna, sashimi tuna and marinated tuna along with the Polynesian staples of rice, beans and breadfruit. This was complimented by the beverage of choice, water. It was a lovely evening and very nice to be considered part of their extended family.
The next morning while we were checking the internet in the cruisers hut, Alfred came over and gave us a huge piece of tuna as a parting gift. Pauline and Alfred really are the salt of the earth and it was a pleasure to have been able to share a slice of their lives and to have had GWTW resting in their capable hands during the cyclone season.
I doubt that we will get the chance to stop by there again, but for those in our wake this is an excellent place to haul your boat. Apataki Carenage is the only haulout facility in the Tuamotos and with this area receiving much less rainfall than the Marquesas and the Society Islands, it becomes the logical choice for many cruisers.
When Alfred isn’t hauling out boats, he’s playing in his potted garden. He grows watermelon, red and green peppers, tomatoes, shallot, basil, and bananas. Sadly it is not for us cruisers and is all for the family’s consumption.
March 27th rocked around and the wind gods decided it was time for us to hit the road. In a bit of a rash decision mid afternoon, we pulled up the anchor, waved goodbye to our Apataki friends and literally sailed off into the sunset. Our next destination, well the first of many for 2018 was to be the atoll of Kauehi, 80 miles east of our current position. We had heard very good reports about this beautiful little atoll and the friendly people who call it home. So off we went for the season’s shakedown overnight sail.
Cruisers Info as of February 2018
Apataki Carenage: Motu Tamaro, Tuamotu, 15 33 40 S/ 146 14. 49 W
Contact Details: Email: apatakicarenageservices@gmail.com
Phone: 87 716 139
Facilities: Internet is available for 2,000cfp per 7 days or 500 cfp per day. A password is required and is available from Pauline in the office.
Provisioning. A boat trip to the village grocery store, nine miles back across the lagoon costs 2,000cfp per person return.Trips usually coincide with the weekly flight to or from Tahiti on Friday mornings.
Fresh eggs are available on site from the boatyard hens, 600 cfp per doz
Supply Ship from Tahiti comes each Wednesday night but the schedule does vary occasionally so check with Pauline. Bulk provisioning orders can also be arranged to come via the ship, ask Pauline how to go about that.
Bathrooms are very rustic. There is one shower and two toilets.
Water & Electricity: Bore water is available to your boat via a communal hose and 220v / 60 htz electricity is also available. Both can ONLY be used when the yard’s generator is running.
Hardstand Cost for a 49ft catamaran, the hardstand cost was 56,545 cfp per month. Cyclone tiedowns: Once only concrete block tie down cost at 4 points of the boat was 30,000 cfp. Haulout, powerwash & relaunch, was 5,3626 cfp.
Extra charges for power-tool rental & electricity. Limited miscellaneous items available from office eg 3M blue masking tape, acetone, silicon etc, But far better to bring it ALL with you including antifoul paint and resins
Follow us on our tracker at:
https://aus-share.delorme.garmin.com/GoneWithTheWind
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Once the anchor was down we partook in a celebratory adult beverage, and we fired up Genny the generator. Now young Gen has had her fair share of problems over the years and today she had a little “moment” there for a few minutes, but then she saw the light and came to the party. For that she got a big fat gold star. 
Come sunset we headed into the dock for a birthday sundowner with the crews from Kalea, Heaven’s Door and Boju.
Our stay in New Zealand and Australia seem like distant memories since arriving back to GWTW. The flight back with Air New Zealand was once again wonderful. We had a single night stay in Papette at the Fare Swiss guesthouse and then it was off to the airport bright and early to catch the Air Tahiti flight back to Apataki 
After a super quick dash into the village grocery store to pick up some very basic supplies it was into the boatyard tender for the 10 mile run back across the lagoon. GWTW was in great shape after being home alone for a few months. All that hard work before we left her had really paid off.
And as for me, well I’ve been writing posts for the blog, reading, washing anything that doesn’t move, culling out of date supplies and doing lots of “Domestic Goddess” jobs. The intensity of the tropical sun, and that has registered 50c on our thermometer but usually hangs around 40c, takes its toll on us each day if we are working outside, and we fall into bed not long after 8.30 each night. Tonight will be no different.