USA Coast to Coast: The Ultimate Road Trip. Part 7

11th – 20th  August 2014

The clock was now ticking down to the main event of our whole trip. Yellowstone National Park, the place where Yogi, Boo Boo and Ranger Smith hang out was just around the corner

 

Stopping for a night  in the small town of Pinedale we visited the Man of the Mountain Museum. This museum  had many exhibits about the fur trade, mainly beaver, as well as the  exploration and history of the early settlement of Wyoming and the  lifestyle and culture of the Plains Indians. It was quite interesting but after a couple of hours we returned to our cosy log cabin for the evening.

 

 

 

Next on the big ticket items was Grand Teton National Park. This is the home of the  ski resort town of Jackson Hole where many of the the rich and famous fly in on G5’s to their holiday homes and spend the winter months powder skiing the slopes.

      

We caught the sky tram from trendy Teton Village to the summit, an elevation of 10,450 ft. straight up and spent a couple of hours soaking up the magnificence of the, dare I use another adjective, drop dead gorgeous views. Crazy powder hounds with Go Pros stuck to their heads actually jump off the top of this mountain, ski over 4000ft to the bottom and then  for kicks do it all again. Liam with his fear of heights had a tough enough time just looking out of the sky tram windows, let alone ever entertaining the thought of jumping off the top. As for me, well I’d give it a go.

Apart from the tram ride and the views, the amount of accommodation in the village was astounding and they were still building more.There’s a lot of people out there with a heck of a lot of money. Leaving the village we stopped briefly at Jenny Lake. With a backdrop of Grand Teton Mountain  it’s no wonder that this beautiful mirror lake has become the poster child in a lot of advertising for the area.

Not far from the lake we crossed the Snake river, a couple of people were standing on the bridge pointing down towards the river, so of course we stopped the car to see what the fuss was about and low and behold, right there within spitting distance we saw our first Moose.

Standing around 6 ft and the size of a horse moose generally are shy, elusive creatures who like to hang out in swamps and wetlands and munch on willow, twigs and aquatic plants. But this guy was right out there in the middle of the river and wow could he pull a crowd. Within minutes hundreds of people pulled off the road and leapt out, cameras in hand, to watch him go about having his lunch. The traffic got so congested that the park rangers quickly arrived on the scene to help out with crowd control. Moose sightings like this are extremely rare we were told. We stayed about 15 mins before moving on to drive the Elk Range, a wildlife loop, and when we rejoined the main road an hour later the cars and people were still there so we stopped again. Sure enough so was Mr Moose, but  he was even closer to our vantage point now. The bush telegraph had worked well  in our absence and along with those seeking a kodak moment were the pros with their tripods and long lenses waiting to capture that Nat Geo cover shot. We were thrilled to have been Johnny on the spot that day.

Following I 89  north, a few hours later we arrived at the southern entrance to the holy grail of all US national parks, Yellowstone. We still had a good drive ahead of us, around 80 miles, before we reached the town of West Yellowstone and the Branding Iron Hotel which we’d use as our base over next five days.

 

During summer the pilgimage to the park never seems to stop. People arrive in droves and the accommodation in the surrounding towns, within the park as well as the many campgrounds are RV parks are packed to capacity.The general rule is that you don’t just show up, bookings have to be made months in advance.

We were lucky to have scored a room by booking  just a couple of weeks earlier. It was the only dates they had available in a take it or leave it situation. No arriving earlier and no extensions considered. Stating the obvious, Yellowstone is all about nature.  Waterfalls, ravines, thermal activity and of course the showstopper, the wildlife that roam the plains, woods and hills.

 

The park spans the two states of Wyoming and Montana, but the lion’s share is in the former. Divided into two areas, the northern and southern loops, it is the south in our opinion that has more of the attractions and definitely more animal sighting possibilities. We’d hit the road early each day and most times return after dark ready to do it all again tomorrow. The up close and personal factor with the animals was off the richtor, especially in the late afternoons and early evenings. Where ever there was a traffic jam you could be sure that one of the big three were involved, bison, bears or elk.

 

The rangers would  instantly appear from nowhere to make sure  that no-one got too close whether they were crossing the road, walking  the centreline or swimming across a river. They are wild after all.

 

But the magic moments were when we spotted  an animal and had them all to ourselves before the crowds and the rangers arrived. One such time was while we hiked a trail along the top of Yellowstone Canyon and  we had our first close encounter of the grizzly kind. He was right there just to the side of the trail munching away on berries in the undergrowth. So intent  was he on filling his tummy he never looked up once, though for sure he new we were there. Armed with our recently bought bear spray, we were very glad when he loped off up the trail  in the opposite direction to us.

 

That same afternoon as we headed back to our car a herd of bison came charging through the woods 50ft from where we were strolling. They ran through the picnic area, past tables and chairs and on through the car park to the field beyond. Without the safety of our SUV that’s as close as we ever want to be to a big herd of them, not that they give a second thought to t-boning cars if the mood takes them, so the rangers told us.

 

Geysers and thermal pools of water and mud are the other big attraction in the park and there are lost of them scattered around. The most famous being Old Faithful which regularly erupts every 90 mins and shoots steam and water high into the air. It’s a crowd puller with thousands of people turning out to watch the event several times a day.

 

It was here that we had the million to one chance meeting with sailing friends who we’d last seen in Trinidad two years earlier. They had bought a motor cycle and we touring the USA as we were, and just happened to sit  down right next to us to watch Old Faithful do it’s stuff at the11am performance. What is the odds of that?

One of our final stops  was at the Grizzly and Wolf Discovery Centre in West Yellowstone. The bears that are housed in the centre were relocated  here after displaying aggressive behavior towards humans. Most of them  developed the bad habits of scavenging food from campsites and rubbish bins and began displaying aggressive behavior to anyone who got in their way.

Sadly, most of the wolves here had been bred for parts in movies and when they got too old or didn’t make the cut would have been euthanized. Having been fully domesticated they were rescued by the centre  as they would not be able to survive in the wild.

 

After a couple of fabulous days in the park seeing  and doing everything that Yellowstone is famous for it was time to move on yet again. We headed out via Mammoth Hot Springs, stopping for a look at the ice-like crystal deposits which had formed over millions of years of thermal activity.

From there it was on to Red Lodge through the Beartooth Mts via the spectacular Beartooth Highway. From the northeast Yellowstone entrance the highway took us through pine forests to alpine tundra, past partly frozen high altitude lakes and snow that lingers during summer to nearly 11,000 ft  above sea level before descending back down to the valley floor. This two laned switch back road was an engineering marvel which ranks third after the Golden Gate Bridge and the Going-to-the-Sun-Road in Glacier National Park.

While still in the cowboy state of Wyoming, we checked out the town of Cody famous for its “Cody Nite Rodeo”. Having enjoyed the one in Michigan we figured why not do it again.

Cody was very much geared towards the tourists with a massive carpark for all the RV’s and coaches along with a few souvenier shops selling rather tacky shirts, belts, boots and hats. And while it was still fun it just didn’t have the atmosphere of the small town rodeo. Still you never know if you never go.

              

              

              

The next morning we had a go at white water rafting. A small outfit took us for an hour of fun down the Shoshone Canyon River. Ever the thrill seekers, we put our hands up for front row seats in the raft and were duly doused with a couple of chilly waves over the bow while Liam tried his hand at being an oarsman.

The river was down in volume so the rapids weren’t quite like what the brochure showed. We get way wetter landing our dinghy on the beach some days. But it got us out of bed early and we had a taste of something a bit different.

 

We also popped our heads into the Buffalo Bill Historical Centre. Five museums are housed here under one roof and are packed to the rafters with Buffalo Bill, Native American and wild west memorabilia . There was also a great natural history museum which focused on the animals and eco systems of Yellowstone National Park which was a mere 50 miles away. Moving on from Cody we drove through more beautiful canyons and across the border into big sky state of Montana.

 

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Info: Park Fees. Yellowstone and Teton National Park fee is  a combined total of $25 USD and is valid for use in both parks for 7 days

USA Coast To Coast, The Ultimate Road Trip Part 6

2nd –10th August 2014

Leaving the Badlands behind we headed to the scenic mountain area known as the Black Hills. Famous  during the gold rush days these hills were the home of the Lakota Sioux Native Americans who were driven out by the settlers and double crossed by the government of the time. It’s also the home of Mt Rushmore and Custer State Park, both of which were on our must-see list.

We’d been told by a host of people about the “mother of all motor cycle rallies” that attracts around 400,000 bikers each year. It was being held over the next two weeks in a town called Sturgis, and were assured that we didn’t have a chance in hell of finding accommodation within a 200 mile radius of the place. “Well that’s just great“ was one of the terms that sprang to mind.

The Black Hills and surrounding towns are a favourite area for the bikers to cruise, pose, party and stay in the weeks before and after the rally. So we were almost blown away when we made the all important phone call to the Roosevelt Inn in Keystone, an old mining town which just happens to be smack bang in the centre of the hills, and got a “yes” answer to the almost laughable question we asked. They had one room left and we snapped it up like there was no tomorrow.

Arriving mid afternoon we were greeted by the spectacle of hundreds of immaculately kept Harley Davidsons and a sprinkling of foreign brand bikes. Huge banners strung over the main street welcomed the bikers. Cafes offered dinner and breakfast specials, bike wash and detailing signs were plentiful as were happy-hours at any one of the many watering holes.

Leather, bandanas and tassels were the clothing of choice for the unshaven, larger-than-life males. While the women wore tight fitting tank tops, equally as tight faded jeans, designer sunnies, high heeled boots and as much bling as they were capable of wearing. It was a spectacle to say the least. But we were there for the sightseeing, not the people watching.

After another lovely BBQ dinner in the town park, we trooped up the road to the evening sound and light show at Mt Rushmore National Monument. Starting at 9pm the ranger program gave us a novel introduction to the awesome foursome whose images are carved into the mountainside. A daylight trip the following afternoon gave us a better look at the imposing faces and time to stroll the presidential trail and take it all in.

Built between the years of 1927 and 1941, sculptor Gutzon Borglum and his 400 strong workforce brought to life the monolithic facial carvings of Presidents Jefferson, Roosevelt, Washington and Lincoln.

Whilst staying in Keystone we also ventured out to Custer State Park. Like storm chasers we were in search of the big boys. Those who have roamed these hills and plains for thousands of years. Tatanka, Bison, North American Buffalo, call them what you will, that’s who we were looking for.

The park has a heard of around 1300 so we figured that a photo op was pretty much on the cards. Stopping at the ranger station and were told that the herd were down a few dirt roads and just over that hill. They did say the best time to see them was early morning, well  clearly we’d missed that, or in the early evening.  By the time we got to where they had been sighted earlier they had moved way, way over the hill.and were pretty much just dots. Alas there was no up close and personal stuff this time, so we continued on our merry way taking in the sights of some of the other park residents.

 

 

The views throughout the park were breathtaking. The roads snaked around valleys and gorges, up pine clad mountains, past the geological marvels known as the “Needles” and followed babbling brooks and pretty lakes. Stopping for coffee breaks and lunch as well as sharing the two laned roads with an unending procession of slow moving bikers made for a long day.

     

 

With the light fading we decided to head back to tatanka territory once again. Maybe this time we’d get lucky. It was a good 50 min drive back to the park but once we got  there we sure got our bison fix. The magnificent beasts were out and about and on the move. Some just sauntered along the roadside while the more frisky males bolted after the cow of their choice, not giving a second glance to anything that was in their way, including the cars. These guys owned the road, that was clear. We could hear them, smell them and if we’d reached out the window touched them as well. Following along with the herd until it was dark had to be one of the best moments of our trip so far.

 

  

Leaving the Black Hills area our route took us through Deadwood and then on through Sturgis where we really got to see what the Sturgis rally was all about.

 

        

There were bikers and bikes everywhere they had come from all over the USA as well as Canada and Europe. We sure were glad we were only passing through and not staying.

North Dakota was next on our list of states to visit. Again the roads were  mostly dead straight, the countryside covered in wheat fields, the terrain as flat as a pancake. Surprisingly North Dakota is rich in oil. It’s the second largest provider of oil in the US after Texas. You learn something new everyday.

 

 

 

Intent on spotting more bison we  headed even further north to Theodore Roosevelt National Park where we spent a day and a half driving the wildlife loop, yep we drove the loop twice. High up on the rim overlooking Painted Canyon and the park we gazed down over the inhospitable landscape searching for those little brown specs of animals. It was a cold drizzly day and as we drove the 36 mile loop the first time we should have realised that these critters were way smarter than us. They were all hunkered down somewhere warm out of the rain and also out of camera and eyesight range. Needless to say we returned to our abode at the Cowboy Inn, rather  disappointed. We’d  go out and give it another shot tomorrow. After another futile expedition into the park next morning we gave up on our quest and turned the Ford Explorer southwest towards Montana and Wyoming. Over the next few days we took in all the sights with the name “Bighorn “in it and the first cab off the rank was the Little Bighorn Battlefield National Monument.

Now who hasn’t heard of General George Armstrong Custer and his last stand? Yep, we all have and for good reason…for once the Indians won! Rather than boring you with too much history, suffice to say Custer and his troops, carrying out orders to remove the Indians by force from their nomadic lifestyle to the Dakota Territorys reservation area, figured on an easy victory once they had established the location of the Indian camp. Custers’ reconnaissance teams led him to believe that all the warrior braves were away on a war party. He figured  that he would only have to deal with the women and children in the camp…big mistake there George. Having split his regiment into three battalions, one group’s orders was to push the tribe from the camp into the waiting rifle sights of Custer’s regiment.

Forced to back-pedal big time, Custer and his men stood their ground on a small rise and attempted to shoot it out, but failed totally. Such was their panic  on seeing the warrior braves emerging from the camp some of his soldiers actually sought shelter behind fallen horses, but obviously to no avail. So history now records the defeat and death of over 260 soldiers at the hands of several thousand Lakota and Cheyenne warriors on two hot days in June of 1876. Many of the Indians also perished.

    

Many of the monuments erected at Little Bighorn are inscribed with hundreds of names from both sides. They make for fascinating reading. Warriors named “Fine Weather”, “Young Rabbit”, “Big Ankles”, “Good Weasel”, “Yells at Daybreak” and “Don’t Paint his Face” are among those recorded as casualties.

             

Retribution for soldier deaths from the US Government was swift and uncompromising. Those who remained were either killed or relocated to reservations and within a short space of time this included pretty much the entire native American population.The era of freedom for those proud and noble people was well and truly over forever. At the battlefield there is an excellent visitors centre with short films and comprehensive talks from the rangers who certainly know their stuff. We came away with a good understanding and appreciation of the events that took place here all those years ago. For us Little Bighorn Battlefield was certainly worth the visit.

Following a night spent in the town of Sheridan we drove up and up, traversing the Bighorn Mountains. This is a major summer and winter playground with spectacular views of the surrounding countryside. The road, which is not for the faint hearted, wends its way up steep conifer clad mountains to the tranquil wildflower meadows on the top. Hiking trails and numerous streams rippling with trout beckon the outward bounders at this time of year. We sure wished we’d had some fishing gear!

Leaving the dizzy heights  of the Bighorns the road drops steeply and quickly to the Wyoming  plains below. Numerous signs posted along the roadside to “check your brakes” attest to the steep grades on the decent and believe me they weren’t kidding. Last up on our Bighorn tour was the Bighorn Canyon Gorge which spans the Montana / Wyoming border. Somewhat of a mini Grand Canyon it was also a sight to see.The Devil Canyon Overlook gave us the best view and way in the distance we even caught a glimpse of a couple of Bighorn sheep for which the mountains and gorge are named after.

 

From the Canyon we headed to the town of Greybull where we spent two wonderful nights in the family run Greybull Motel. This  is one motel we would highly recommend to anyone travelling this way. The room we stayed in was big, it had 2 bedrooms actually, both with his and hers flat screen TV’s and an outdoor BBQ and seating area. What else did we need for our two day chill-out session? Oh, did I mention the golf course just up the road ? Well that  just put the icing on the cake. Relaxation and exercise. Aahh.

              

 

     

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INFO: Hotels in this posting. See hotel websites for current rates.

 

Keystone SD: The Roosevelt inn. Great location for visiting Mt Rushmore, Custer State Park and the Black Hills Area. Reasonable rates, variety of rooms, clean & comfortable, B’fast included in rate.

Lemmon SD: Lemmon Country Inn: Clean and comfortable, very cheap rate, b’fast included but recommend going else where to eat.

Belfield ND: Cowboy Inn: Clean and comfortable, good rates, no B’fast, but do have gas BBQ’S for guest use.

Foryseth MT: Rails Inn. Room was ok, noisy a/c, b’fast included in rate. Would go downtown to eat next time.

Sheridan MT: Day’s Inn. Poor presentation, though room was  big and comfortable. B’fast included in rate.

Greybull WY: Greybull Motel: Excellent presentation, very comfortable rooms, b’fast included, gas BBQ for guest use. Small refrigerator & microwave in room.

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Test from Belize…internet here is not so great, more postings waiting in the wings. Just need co-operation from the cyber gods!

I know I’ve said it before but hang in there  .