Down Time at Fraser  Island.

22 October - 7th November 2022.

Now that all our Australian entry formalities were done and dusted we were free to do whatever took our fancy.

First up was a much needed trip to the Supermarket. We were pretty much out of everything. Just a short way down the road from the marina was the local IGA and, as an added bonus, they had a free courtesy bus that would pick you up and once the shopping was done, they’d drive us back to the marina. Wow, after all our years of sailing this was a much welcomed service.

Over the coming days we ventured further afield into the main township of Bundaberg. The local bus stopped right outside of the marina and took about 20 mins to get into town. Town was a pretty busy place. It had everything and more. Woolworths, Coles and Aldi had shelves overflowing with stuff, the likes of which we hadn’t seen for months. No more trying to work out what the labels said either. It was all in English ! 

                                                         Farmland along the Burnett River

Anchored off Fraser Island

Living in the marina was great for a week or so but soon we felt the need to be out on the hook. So in company with our friends on Eye Candy we headed across to Fraser Island, a 46 mile jaunt east of the marina. We dropped the anchor at 1700 hrs just south of Triangle Cliffs on the sheltered western side of the island. It was lovely seeing the clear blue water again rather than the muddy Burnett River that flows past the marina.

Spending four days there was worry free for a change. There was no more being students of the weather or changing sails in the dark on a rolling sea. Sleeping all through the night was sheer bliss with no thumping of the engine to spoil it.

But time moves on and soon we were lifting the anchor and heading back to Bundy. On the way back we caught a huge Wahoo, probably the biggest we’ve ever caught. It was a  real beauty and sure to take up a lot of room in our freezer. And as Liam always says “you can never have too much fish!”

What a catch

No need for a caption here !

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The Final Ocean Passage

15th- 21st October 2022

So here we were staring down the barrel of what would be the very last ocean crossing of our 16 year & 183 day circumnavigation.

On reflection it was hard to come to grips with the fact that we've been away for so long and even harder to imagine a life going forward without cruising. Salt water is most definitely in our veins.

Having topped up our two fuel tanks and seven jerry cans with  570 L of duty free fuel as well as a quick last minute shopping trip for the bare minimum of supplies to get us to Oz, (not much point having too much and then having Australian Border Force take it off us once we arrive in Bundaberg), we were ready to go.

Goodbye Noumea

Our last night in New Caledonia was spent anchored off the small island of ILE NGE also known as ILE Laregnere. This was the same place that we’d waved goodbye to our Kiwi friends from S/V Otama a couple of weeks earlier. Tomorrow it would be our turn but there would be no one waving.

We enjoyed our last anchorage in this island nation sitting up on the foredeck while mother nature put on a beautiful sunset complete with the fabled Green Flash.

Sunset at our last anchorage

At 0630 on October 16th our anchor chain rattled its way into the chain locker and the clunk of the anchor snugly settling onto the bow roller let us know that we were away.

Quietly we slipped out of the anchorage with our usual finale song playing, "Time To Say Goodbye".  Next stop Bundaberg Marina QLD, 760nm to the west.

With a full main hoisted and a light breeze of 8 kts from the SE we motored through the Dumbea Pass and out into the Coral Sea. Australia here we come.

Time to hit the road

From day one the wind gods had already made their decision about this final passage for us.

They deemed that there would be no gear breakages and also no viable winds for true sailing, Clearly they wanted both GWTW and her crew of two to get to our destination in one piece. So instead of the fast sailing we’re used to we had cold starry nights and beautiful sunsets with the icing on the cake being more green flashes. Oh and dare I forget the thump of one of our trusty Yanmar engines.

Every day and night was the same as the previous as we alternated between engines and mainsail or genoa. The daily mantra of “no fish were hurt today” was of great disappointment to Liam.

Our only voice contact with the outside world was checking in each morning and evening with Gulf Harbour Radio based in NZ on our HF (high frequency) radio net. We’d seen a couple of planes and two or three passing ships but no other yachts.

Then on the early hours of day three the breeze came up. We were100nm west of the Kelso Seamount which had to be avoided and at last the engine was turned off’, “ahh the sound of silence,”  it was music to our ears. Even the heavens must have been thankful as a shooting star was sent our way to celebrate the occasion as we glided along under the stars with a full mainsail and genoa.

By1030 that morning the wind was gusting 21 kts. It was time to put a reef in the mainsail and roll in half of the genoa. Boat speed read 9.8kts and climbing, with the sky starting to look overcast and stormy and the seas became increasingly lumpy. By later that evening the second reef was pulled in as the winds remained constant and the seas were now up to 2 meters and quite rough.

Day five saw the wind shift from the southeast to east which was dead behind and not a good angle of sail (aka known as shit),for any catamaran. Our distance to run was now just a piddly138nm to go…Put the bubbly in the fridge!

As we closed the gap between us and the coast the heavens opened and down came the rain. With the shipping lanes creeping ever closer we were glad we had radar on board to spot the rain squalls and approaching ships.

The wind once again shifted. This time to the north east nudging 20+ kts at times, but even so we hoisted our mainsail fully up with a half genoa up front.

It was sleigh ride time and we could smell and see the finish line.

GWTW stretched her legs for one last gallop. She was heading to the barn.

Tears flowed at O555 on the 21st of October as we crossed our outbound track from way back in 2006. Our anchor rattled its way down into the muddy waters of the Bundaberg River and we waited for instructions to berth on the quarantine dock at the marina

                                                           It was over, we’d done it.

                                                We have sailed around planet earth.

Tied up to the Quarantine Dock next to fellow Aussie cruisers Eye Candy

But our journey isn’t officially over until we sail back in through Sydney Heads so stay tuned.

Meanwhile here in Bundaberg the Down Under Rally welcome party would be starting in a few days time and that should be an absolute hoot.

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New Caledonia : So many islands, so little time.

20th September – 15 October 2022

After arriving back to the metropolis of Noumea after our jaunt south to Isle of Pines and surrounding islands we realized there was still a heap more exploring to be done. But first things first… a  much needed provisioning trip to the fresh market and then on to the supermarkets. We spent four busy days lapping up life in the marina before heading out again.

The majority of islands dotted around the western side of New Caledonia are uninhabited. These islands or cays are really just sand strips with a bit of vegetation thrown in for good measure and are usually drop dead gorgeous.

Our first stop this time was L’ ilot Mbe Kowen  and yes it was drop dead gorgeous. In company with our friends from Eye Candy we stayed a couple of days. Swimming in the pristine aqua shallows, watching the turtles glide past and walking on the white sand beach filled our time there perfectly.

                         The photos below are of a couple of fury friends we found at an abandoned resort

Next up was a rendezvous on Isle Laregnere to meet up with our Kiwi friends from Otama who would be Australia bound to Gladstone the following morning. Also a big thanks to Clair from Eye Candy for taking this photo when my camera battery died .    

And off they go to Australia

Yet again the little gem of L’ ilot Nge was another beautiful spot and perfect for walks  ashore. 

Sharing the serenity with a couple of Pukeko

Sundowners with Ted and Adrian from Otama 2nd and 3rd from left

Great spot for sunset and sundowners too.

Over the following eleven days we spent most of time back down in the Prony Bay area visiting a plethora of anchorages and small islands. There was more socializing on shore with new found friends as well as trail walks, ruins to discover, hot spring pools to soak our weary bones in and dinghy trips up narrow coconut tree lined creeks. It’s never a dull moment when you are out there cruising.

There is always time for a catch up ashore at Casy Islet

GWTW anchored at pretty Casy Islet.
And below a hard way to take your punishment.

Enjoying the hot springs. Thanks again to the Eye Candy crew for the photo.

Our last stop on this itinerary before hitting the big smoke again was one of our favourite islands Bay Vere. It is a lovely horseshoe shaped bay with just a hut and a kayak rental area which didn't look like it was in business any more.

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Exploring the islands and anchorages of New Caledonia

8th - 20th September 2022.

Our first anchorage was within spitting distance of Port Moselle Marina, and to be frank we were quite exhausted after the 3 nm journey. Two weeks tied to the dock makes you soft.

Anchored off Ilot Maitre

Ilot Maitre was our destination for the night. It was a pretty island with trendy overwater bungalows. We’d heard on the grapevine that the resort didn't welcome cruisers ashore so we stayed put on GWTW and were happy with that.

Next morning we weighed anchor, rolled out half our jib and had another massive passage of nearly 9nm to the well protected  Baie Maa on the west coast of the mainland. The winds were pretty puffy rushing down the surrounding hills but our anchor was dug into thick sand and we never moved an inch all night.

There was really nothing in the bay to keep us more than a day.

 And with that on day 3 we pointed the bows south west for 34 nm toward Anse de la Est in Pyrony Bay which would be our jumping off point to the famed Isle des Pins   ( Isle of Pines) the following morning.

Sunrise before heading to Isle De Pines

In company with Aussies Clare and Andy from Eye Candy we set out at 0600 for the 40 plus nm passage. It was a bit of a dogleg to get there needing a keen eye to spot the many reefs and rocky outcrops which play hazard with boats plying this route.

Being an overcast and hazy day it was vital to keep a good lookout at all times as many boats have come to grief getting to the island .We arrived around 3pm and dropped the anchor in 21ft off a beautiful sandy beach.

Anchored off the Island

The next three days were spent exploring the island on foot and by car

We rented a car at the local resort and the four of us piled in to see the sights…churches, cemeteries, two prisons, the local fresh market which had very little on display as well as walking to see several wood carvings dotted around the foreshore of where we  anchored.

Wood Carvings along the shore

The owner of this sign sure didn't mince his words!

One of many beautiful churches dotted around the island

A road side cemetery

The Oumagne Grotto

One of the two Prison ruins on the Island

On our way back to return the car we stopped for a coffee over at a resort on the opposite side of the bay which we patronized as they had free Wi-Fi available. It was then that we learned of Queen Elizabeth's passing a few days before. We were all saddened by this news.

Feeding Fido

During another of our shoreside lunch excursions Liam befriended a local dog who was highly trained in the art of begging for food.

Once Liam and his friend had gobbled down Liam's’ meal said pooch, now with a tummy full, moved on to the next table where he had equal success with his new found family.

The supply ship arriving from the mainland

The days were slipping by and It was now the 15th of September and time to say goodbye to the Isle des Pins.

 It was another early start just after dawn and the posse of two headed out under sail to pretty Ilot Ua arriving just after midday, 

A long pristine beach greeted us as we plopped the anchor into wonderfully clear water. Sundowners on the beach, well on a tarp actually were the order of the late arvo.

Another perfect beach just made for sunset drinks 

All was going well until a couple of uninvited guests of the variety known as slithery headed our way.

Liam our resident snake handler was quickly on the job and persuaded them to move on with the help of a big stick.

 You probably didn’t know that sea snakes could fly did you.

After a lay day and some uninspiring snorkeling we headed back towards the mainland once again with the top stopping spot being Ile Vere, a  horseshoe shaped bay with excellent protection from the SW winds.

Once gain we had sundowners ashore where this time we met up with a family of locals (Kanaks) who were most interested in our travels around the globe. They were cooking up fresh caught fish on their makeshift BBQ and offed some to the four of us. Didn’t need to ask us twice!

After another couple of lay days and watching the late Queen’s funeral in French it was time to head back to the big smoke once again for a much needed provisioning run.

Another perfect Pacific Sunset

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Noumea, New Caledonia

27th August – 8th September 2022

As we had arrived into the country on a Saturday afternoon both the Customs and Immigration departments were closed. However the Biosecurity was open and we were instructed  by the marina staff  to remain onboard  with our yellow quarantine flag up until the  Bio Officer had paid us a visit and cleared us for entry. Within an hour we saw the lady officer strolling down the dock towards GWTW. She introduced herself and hopped aboard. She was most impressed that I’d already bagged and tagged what little rubbish we had.

Gwtw at Port Moselle Marina

I still had some fruit and veg left and when she checked it she let me keep the lot saying that it had originally come from NZ even though I’d bought it in Fiji as Fiji don’t grow apples or oranges or potatoes. She was really sensible about the fruit and veg. Such a refreshing attitude.

Before she left she asked us to keep our yellow flag up for about two hours in case a Customs officer decided to drop by. Her parting words on that subject was, they won’t come they never do. We were then free to do whatever we wanted until Monday when we’d need to pay Immigration a visit. Customs never did come to the boat.

The delightful cafe at the marina

Over the following two weeks comfortably  berthed at the marina  we explored Noumea and surrounds both on foot and by car. 

The supermarkets were right on our doorstep as were the fabulous fresh veggie market and the fish market and chandleries, butchers and of course patisseries. There was no excuse not to eat well.

 This city is relatively small and compact in comparison to other capital cities we've visited so it was an easy stroll around.

There was a huge variety of fish available

And the best fruit, veg and meat since leaving New Zealand

China Town but we only found two Chinese Restaurants

A very popular beach for tourists, Plage de la Baie des Citrons

Saint Joseph Cathedral

Our friend Andy from Eye Candy had met with a nasty accident en route from Vanuatu to New Cal when it was fish vs man. 

As he rushed out of their cockpit  to land the Mahi Mahi a small piece of metal attached to the aft gate tore through the flesh on his calf and into the muscle leaving a very angry gash.

They were still 24 hours away from medical assistance but with help from  both Marine Rescue Coordinators and Gulf Harbour Radio in New Zealand an appointment was set up in Nouema with a local doctor just across from Pt Moselle Marina for when they arrived.

It was a bit of a long saga to get the gash to heel with many many visits to the doctor. But slowly, and I mean very slowly, we’re talking over a month, before it finally healed and Andy and Clare could get on with their cruising life and Andy could get back in the water once more.

And on that note it was time for us to drop the dock lines and explore more of this sub tropical Island.

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Passage Fiji to New Caledonia

23rd –27th August 2022

After having breakfast ashore as it was our 37th wedding anniversary and with our customs clearance in hand we headed back to GWTW. On went the engines and we motored toward the Mololo Pass and through the reef to the open ocean.

Bye Bye Fiji

Looking back over our shoulders we bid goodbye to Fiji and the friendly people who live in this island paradise. Two hours later as Liam was pulling in the first reefing point in our mainsail the reefing point and sheave let go with a mighty crack. Luckily the sheave landed in the dinghy and we figured we could replace the broken part once we arrived in Australia. But until then it would be  sailing with the second reef or nada. Not a good start to the 800 nm passage.

Even with  just the second reef in the mainsail we were romping along with speeds of  nine + knots, a SE wind 15-20 knots and the seas were 1-2 metres. At 1800 Liam got his first strike on one of his three fishing lines. Sadly whatever it was it was big as it chomped off his best lure, possibly a marlin and we sure didn’t want that coming onboard. With a starry night above and a sliver of moon we had a very comfy first night at sea.

Day two had similar conditions to day one. We have a long range SSB radio and keep a radio schedule with boats around us when on a passage. Tonight we heard that Andy from the vessel Eye Candy had succumbed to a five inch gash in his calf as he raced to the transom to pull in a Mahi Mahi. He would more than likely require stitches once docked in Noumea.

Rather small Yellowfin Tuna

Just on dusk Liam heard the familiar ping of the fishing line and pulled in a small Yellowfin Tuna. He’d just got it on the transom when the other line pinged. 

This time it was a decent sized Wahoo which put up quite the fight.

 Once he was dispatched the Yellowfin got a second chance to grow up and was put back in the water, happily swimming away at pace.

Woo Hoo a Wahoo

For the next two days there was no wind or very little so the iron sail came into play and did all the work. We saw no ships and there were no fish to be caught. Quite boring really.

At 0650 on day four we entered the Havanna Channel with a a decent ingoing tide giving us 10 kts of boat speed. 

Rough conditions as we entered the Havanna Channel

Now inside the channel proper the seas calmed down

Nickel mining has scared the landscape

Looking up the channel, Pine trees were everywhere

By 1300 we were tied up at Port Moselle Marina in Noumea with a welcoming committee of Aussies, Andy and Claire from Eye Candy and Kiwis Ted and Adrian from the sailing vessel Otama.

Having an after passage beverage with friends from Eye Candy

It felt great to be back in a French country again and were looking forward to gobbling down fresh baguette's, pate and cheeses and all the delicacies that were on offer.

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